New seastead designs require a great deal of prototyping.
Cardboard and paper mache are inexpensive, flexible, and strong materials well suited for mockups.
This recipe—derived from the Super‑Strong Paper Mache developed by Jonni Good of Ultimate Paper Mache—creates a strong, thin, water resistant paper mache.
Introduction
Uses Titebond III wood glue with paper strips for an extremely tough mask that can dry overnight.
Materials
Titebond III wood glue - For one adult face mask: 8–12 fl oz (237–355 ml).
Clean water - Optional, for thinning the glue.
Lightly thinned (5%): For 8 fl oz batch, mix 7.6 fl oz glue + 0.4 fl oz water (≈12 ml water per 237 ml glue).
Max thinned (10%): For 8 fl oz batch, mix 7.2 fl oz glue + 0.8 fl oz water (≈24 ml water per 237 ml glue).
Paper for strips - Brown packing paper from shipping boxes or newspaper. Tear paper into strips ~1–2 in (2.5–5 cm) wide; narrower pieces for curves and edges.
Wax paper or plastic sheet - To keep your work surface clean.
Disposable mixing container and brush - The glue can ruin dishware, if allowed to dry.
Optional release barriers - Plastic wrap for rigid molds, especially bowls or objects you don’t want to glue to.
Procedure
Prepare the form - Build your mask base (cardboard pattern, foil/tape form, or clay over a mannequin). If using an object you need to keep pristine (like a bowl), cover with plastic wrap as a release.
Tear paper strips - Tear (don’t cut) to create feathered edges that blend well. Use narrower pieces for tight curves.
Mix your glue - Use one of the measured mixes above. Start undiluted if possible; add a splash of water only if needed for brushing/spreading. Use a disposable container.
Apply one strong layer - Either dip strips into the glue and squeegee off excess with fingers, or brush glue onto the surface and lay dry strips into it—both methods work.
Overlap strips and press firmly so glue fully wets the paper and bonds seams. Support the form from the inside while pressing to keep details crisp.Clean up puddles - Check for areas where glue pools (ears, corners). Wick away excess with a paper towel so the layer dries evenly.
Dry thoroughly - Set on wax paper and let dry overnight; a fan speeds things up. Most masks are ready to paint the next day; spot‑check any thicker areas.
Optional: reinforce the inside - For wearable masks, add a second inside layer after the outside cures, then dry again. Jonni often finds one layer sufficient with this glue, but inside reinforcement increases durability.
Prime and paint - Prime with acrylic gesso or spray primer for even color, then paint with acrylics; spray paints also work (matte finishes look great).
Seal (optional) - Finish with an acrylic varnish if desired, especially for handling and mild humidity protection.
Tips, cautions, and variations
Strength vs. cost: This method is pricier than flour paste but can be “almost indestructible” with just one layer—ideal for theatre props or tight deadlines.
Don’t ruin your bowls: The glue can bond hard to containers if it cures—use disposable containers.
Paper choice: Brown packing paper (from boxes) or newspaper both work; brown is slightly stiffer, newspaper conforms more easily.
Release on molds: Wood glue sticks “really good” to many surfaces; cover bowls with plastic wrap. Balloons generally don’t stick (rubbery surface), but test first.
Drying in a hurry: Use a fan; avoid thick puddles; you can add layers only after the previous is fully dry.